Repairing a Routerboard 433UAH by replacing broken capacitors

To solve an IPTV/IGMP issue I had a while back, a friend gifted me a Routerboard 433 UAH. Personally, I love this thing! It provides a really snappy experience, and managed with ease to handle all my network traffic. In addition, the system was neatly managed as it was powered by MikroTik RouterOS.

Up until a few weeks ago, I had no issues with this. I had then been a proud owner of this for about two years (and it was probably a couple of years old when I got it). Then all of a sudden, it started rebooting. I didn’t think much of it at first, as it happened perhaps once per day – but after a few days it happened more often until it finally ended in an infinite boot cycle.  Upon opening the chassis and manually inspecting the circuit board, I found that the capacitors had busted.

Apparently, this is a known issue with Routerboard.. Cheap capacitors or a bad batch?

Here’s an overview picture of how my board looked like before any work was done.

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Here is a more detailed picture of how one of the capacitors had burst.

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4 of 5 capacitors, rated 6.3V at 560 µF needed replacement. Luckily these are easily found at eBay, and arrived at my place 12 days after I ordered some new for $3.

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Once the new capacitors arrived, I fired up my trusty soldering iron – and went to work removing the broken ones.

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Desoldering and removing the old capacitors was not as easily as I initially thought. The solder used on the board from the factory was probably industrial rated and thus required a higher temperature than what my soldering iron managed (max 405ºC). For this reason, I removed all the broken capacitors with wire cutters and drilled holes where the old solder was, using my Dremel 300.

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“Desoldering” complete. Ready for new capacitors.

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New capacitors in place. Looking good!

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All the broken capacitors are now replaced and soldered tight.

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Fully assembled and ready for testing.

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The device now booted as normal and was fully working as before. Instead of throwing the old board and buying a new one (1.999 NOK if bought in Norway, about $230) – I fixed the device for $3 in parts and about an hours work of desoldering/drilling/soldering.

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